We woke up before dawn in hopes of catching the sunrise at Lake Matheson. Early morning is supposed to be the best time for photographing the lake because the reflection is typically the best due to less wind and the mountains are less likely to have cloud cover. We moved quickly along the path and set up at Reflection Island once again. The lake was smooth, and clouds had not yet come in.
However, the best part this morning was that we were alone for the whole hour that we stayed. Ashley was also excited that we left Lake Matheson early enough to get a quick nap before heading down to the Fox Glacier Guiding company for our tour.
We arrived early to check-in and get a bite to eat. Hobnail Cafe is attached to their building, which gave us a chance to have coffee and a hot breakfast before the tour started.
Our tour gathered in a locker room style area where the two guides debriefed us on the gear at our disposal today: thick socks, boots, crampons, jackets (optional), and backpacks (optional). Ashley was disappointed that the ice picks were for the guides only, though Nate didn't believe she would carry it very far anyway. With gear on or packed, we jumped on the bus and rode 15 minutes to the parking area. On the ride the two guides provided background information on Fox Glacier, including how far the glacier had expanded and receded over the past decades and centuries. Once in the parking lot, we were split into two groups to make moving about on the glacier easier. We worked our way into Dean's group to avoid a large, loud backpacker group and were happy it worked out that way.
Because of the huge storm a few weeks back, the stream coming from the glacier had flooded and destroyed much of the preferred path up to the glacier's terminal face. That meant our initial path would pass under an active rock slide area called Gunbarrel. Large boulders were strewn around this path both above and below us, so we moved quickly through this section without stopping.
Safely past Gunbarrel, we had our first good look back up at the rock slide area. Dean would periodically stop the group to provide mini-lectures on glaciation, rock slides, and the surrounding vegetation zones that indicated when and where the glacier had expanded or receded. The hike out to the glacier was over an hour long and mostly uphill (like the whole country), so these were welcome and interesting breaks.
The path our tour group took today was up and over a ridge, allowing what was promised as a great view of the glacier. First, we would have to pass over streams and up many wet steps.
Near the top, was a series of chains anchored into the mountain side. After asking if anyone had a debilitating fear of heights, Dean informed us to always use two hands as we navigated this narrow section with steep drop offs. Past the chains, our group was treated the view looking down and up the glacier. Far below, we could see other groups that looked like ants moving on top of the glacier. Many of the other rock slides and their debris (grey areas on ice) were visible from our high vantage point.
Following another talk from Dean, the group began the trek down the ridge to the staging area for getting onto the glacier. It was easier on this side, though we did have to pass through another chain area. We enjoyed the views as we approached the glacier's terminal face. Small icebergs were visible in the stream indicating recent calving of the glacier.
We reached the staging area where we would put on our crampons, which would aid us while moving around on the ice. The area we were standing on was grey and dark, so it wasn't immediately obvious that we were standing on ice until the crampons were on our boots. The temperature had dropped here, so most members of our group decided to put on jackets or fleeces before heading onto the ice. Meanwhile, Dean provided tips for walking on the ice. For example, walk like a ballerina uphill and like cowboy downhill. We can demonstrate techniques if you're interested.
Of course, Ashley wanted to model her shoes and crampons once we reached some of the cleaner ice.
Dean led us up onto the ice, occasionally using the pick ax to cut a new path or to clean up an older path. We wound our way up the glacier in a single file line across ice and rock. Dean was always searching for unique features on the glacier, with his favorite the moulins (French for mill - you've also probably heard of Moulin Rouge). These were the holes (or caves if large enough) where water cut through the ice to the bottom, with the water lubricating the glacier underneath as it marched ever downward. The stream below running out from the terminal face was primarily from this glacial melt that seeped through the moulins higher up the glacier. For an added benefit, they were typically a bright, beautiful blue hue.
Dean stopped the group at a moulin he had seen a few days earlier. Using his pick ax, he chopped some steps and anchored some rope into the sides for gripping. One by one, he helped members of the group step down into this moulin to see and hear the water running through the crevasse and crashing down further below. It was a neat, but wet experience to climb down into the moulin.
While waiting for the whole group to have some time observing the moulin, it began to rain. Rain jackets were brought out, and it was decided to eat lunch here in hopes of better weather later. Standing on the glacier, we ate quickly since the rain was making our sandwich bread soggy... definitely a picnic to remember! It was cold and unpleasant for 30 minutes, but the rain finally cleared. However, the clouds stayed, threatening rain for the rest of the afternoon.
This area of the Southern Alps has some of the most drastic elevation changes from sea level to mountains in the world, and only 10 km away was the ocean. As the air moves inland, it hits these tall mountains. The only way for the air to move over the mountains is to become lighter, releasing the moisture as rain or snow. The region surrounding the glacier typically receives 5 - 9 meters (15 - 27 feet) of rain a year, and the upper mountain area that feeds the glacier can receive up to 50 meters of snow in a single year.
We continued up the glacier in search of crevasses and more moulins. After another hour or two of hiking we reached the highest point of the day near the lower falls. This section essentially separated the glacier in two, requiring any daring adventurers to move off the glacier and around the 50+ foot tall walls of ice. This route would also take you through the most active rock slide area that was over 100 yards long, nicknamed suicide alley. We had actually seen a rockslide in this section earlier in the hike, though Ashley was unimpressed because none of the rock made it to the glacier that time.
Standing from our high vantage point we could truly appreciate just how large this glacier was. Far below, we could just make out some groups moving near the front end of the glacier. Looking up, the ice towered above, blocking the upper portion of the glacier where the heli-hike tours were flying to. For those familiar with the "Game of Thrones" series, Ashley thought that this portion of the hike was like being "north of the wall." So she felt the need to proclaim that "winter is coming" a few times during the remainder of the hike.
We traversed a large crevasse, and got to quickly look in another section that was deemed too dangerous to walk through because of the ice breaking away above our heads (which one guide calmly referred to as "death flakes"...comforting). The walk down was much easier and provided a new and beautiful perspective of the glacier. Dean kept the group at a solid pace, slowing only to wield his pick ax to clear our path or to check out a potential moulin stop. It periodically rained lightly on the way down, but not nearly as long or as bad as at lunch.
After being on the glacier for 5+ hours, it was a relief to step off the ice and remove crampons. Our legs were sore and tired, but we still had a hike back to the bus and then to base camp. Fortunately Sarah, a German mechanical engineer around our age, chatted to us on the way back about our trip and where we were going next, which really helped pass the time and take our minds off our sore feet. Before we knew it we were on the bus home.
Back at base camp, we turned in all of our gear and happily put on our own shoes. Before leaving, Dean filled out a certificate as evidence of successfully hiking Fox Glacier. These certificates were beginning to feel like a custom in New Zealand. After Nate pointed out that the certificate depicted clear,blue skies over the glacier, Dean personalized ours by drawing in some rain clouds.
It wasn't hard to convince Ashley to do an early dinner (at Matheson Cafe again). The forecast had rain all evening, so a bottle of wine and a soak in the hot tub had us quickly in bed for the night. Tomorrow would be the longest day of driving this trip - approximately 600 kilometers (8 - 9 hours driving). We also had to reach the Homer Tunnel by 7 pm because of road closures, otherwise we would not be staying in Milford Sound for the night. Hopefully Ashley can stay awake long enough to help pass the time while driving.
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