Australia: Sightseeing in Sydney

We started the morning with Peek Tours, one of the free walking tour companies in Sydney.  Our guide Greg was funny and knowledgeable throughout the three hours, keeping the attention of a variety of international visitors.  The tour itself included much of the history of Sydney and wound through the Quay (pronounced as key), the Rocks, CBD, alleys, Hyde Park in the morning. With their convict history past, many of the oldest buildings in Sydney were designed and built by convicts. Cadman's Cottage is the oldest surviving residential building in Sydney, dating back to 1816. The architect, a convict, is believed to have built several other buildings that dot the downtown Sydney area.

About halfway through the tour Greg stopped in Hyde Park for a 20 minute break, providing some time to explore on our own. It was a hot day, so many locals and tourists were sprawled in the shade of the many trees lining the paths.

St. Mary's Cathedral was adjacent to the park, providing a European feel to the city. It was nice to get away from the tall buildings of the CBD and see a different part of the city we likely wouldn't have visited on our own.

After Hyde Park, Greg took us through the Botanical Gardens on the way to the Opera House. We noticed several weddings and receptions as Greg talked about the park and popular spots for fireworks. We even spotted a kookaburra in the Botanical Gardens, prompting Ashley to hum or sing the song throughout the afternoon.

The tour ended at the Opera House with the Peek Tours jumping picture of the group (with Opera House in background). Overall, the tour was a great way to get introduced to Sydney (and cheap too). One of our favorite fun facts we learned was that roughly 1 million people come into Sydney to watch the New Years Eve fireworks. 

Our day of exploring Sydney was aggressive, so shortly after the walking tour was our Opera House tour.  We weren't going to have the time to see a performance this visit and we had been told this was the next best thing. It was a very well organized experience with fully trained guides and headsets that allow a specific group to hear their guide over the background noise.

The tour took us through the two larger performance halls and covered the architectural details and history of one of the most well known buildings in the world.  According to our guide, the Sydney Opera House has a worldwide recognition factor where 2 in 3 could identify it. 

We also saw a lot of setup being done in preparation of New Years including a stage behind the Opera House with the best view of the bridge and fireworks.  One could purchase tickets to party there all for the low price of $1100 a person (includes food and drinks!).

One of the surprising things about Sydney is just how large of an International draw it has.  On our tours, every continent but Africa was represented and everywhere we walked we heard a different language.

Based on the recommendations from Greg and others, we decided to take the Manly ferry to the beach in the late afternoon.  It proved to be a great way to see the Sydney harbor and surrounding sites from a different perspective.  It was a 30 minute ride to the Manly ferry terminal, which is a five minute walk from the beach. It had a classic beach town vibe, with shops and ice cream stores lining the wide pedestrian street. Even though it was late afternoon, Manly beach was still busy and the shops and restaurants were buzzing with activity. 

We didn't stay long, as we wanted to catch the ferry back to the Quay to see the sunset over Sydney from the water.  Unfortunately, too many clouds had rolled in while we were at Manly and blocked any hopes of a nice sunset.  However, the views from the front of the ferry provided new/great views of Sydney.

It was a long day, but we covered a lot of ground (literally) and were able to see many of the iconic Sydney sites.  Tomorrow would be New Years Eve in Sydney.

Australia: Port Douglas to Sydney

Today was a travel day from Port Douglas to Sydney.  A shuttle picked us up from our hotel in town and we travelled along the same picturesque road to Cairns.

We were flying Qantas, and soon realized they had "automated" some tasks that we hadn't seen.  Everyone uses the self check-in kiosk, but in addition to our boarding pass we also got our baggage tags (which we had to put on ourselves).  However, we still had to drop the bag off where someone weighed and put the bag on the belt.

The flight was three hours back to Sydney.  We sat on the right side, which meant we would miss the Opera House as we landed (although Ashley did manage to catch a brief glimpse by looking over to the other window).  We did, however, see much of the river and the many boats out on the water.

Sydney has a really nice train network from the airport to Circular Quay (downtown).  The train we got on was a double-decker and took 18 minutes to get to our stop - and all for half the price and time of a cab.

From Circular Quay, it was a 2 minute walk to the Marriott Circular Quay where we were staying. It was of course slammed because it was only a few days until New Years.  No upgrade, but we did get a bottle of wine and a cheese plate as our arrival gift.  In addition, the executive lounge was open every day (which is rare in the US) meaning we could get breakfast there as well.  Ashley was reminded several times on the elevator up that Nate's travel does have perks.

It was already evening after check-in, so we headed out to explore the nearby area.  This was our first good view of the Opera House, the Sydney Harbor Bridge, and many, many people.

We continued on through the Rocks until the Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel.  Their claim to fame (as well as 3 other bars) is that they are the  oldest bar in Sydney and Australia.  The food and beer were both good as was the atmosphere. Nate got to try a couple of the house beers, and Ashley ordered a beef pie with "mushy peas" mainly to see if they were different from regular peas. Turns out they are just like normal peas but slightly mushy. Go figure.

We didn't stay out too late, because tomorrow would be spent on our feet touring and walking around Sydney.

Australia: A Beach Day in Port Douglas

Today was our free day in Port Douglas, and it felt nice to finally be able to sleep in.  Well, Nate got up for sunrise pictures while Ashley slept in.

However, it was going to be the hottest day we had here, peaking in the mid 90's. But, unlike Tampa, a stiff breeze coming off the reef would help.

We lathered up on sunscreen and walked down to 4 Mile Beach.  The Welcome sign explicitly informed beachgoers to only swim in the stinger nets to avoid the box jellyfish.  Salties (saltwater crocs) and bull sharks were also known to come along the beach.  As an additional precaution, vinegar was provided at several spots along the beach in case of a sting.  Needless to say, we quickly realized that all swimmers were taking the warnings seriously and were only swimming in the stinger nets.

The beach itself was 4 miles long, with a bend about 3 miles down from the start in Port Douglas.  The sand was soft but a darker color than Florida's.  We chose a spot along the beach near the lifeguard stand and stinger nets. 

After 20 minutes, Ashley started commenting on how the sun felt different (hotter).  Anytime the breeze stopped for a moment, it felt as if we were in a parked car with the windows up.  We didn't know it at the time, but there is a hole in ozone that covers parts of Australia and Antarctica.  That meant we both would be red and sore for a few days despite being on the beach for only 2 hours.
We both tested out the water (while in the stinger nets), but didn't stay in long because it was so warm. 

With our skin burning, we left the beach for some afternoon shopping.  Ashley was excited to check out the boutiques and look for souvenirs and watercolors.  On our way through town, we also had a quick stop by the Target Country (a mini Target) to see what it was like. 

Lunch was at Mocka's Pies, a winner for top pies in Queensland.  Australians like their pies, which are their street food, much as the US has hot dogs.  Pies come in many varieties, and they are similar to a small, hand-held pot pie that has meat and a light sauce.  We both had an original steak and thought it was pretty good.

We walked through town and the shops until we got to the Marina.  The marina is located in an estuary, and we had been told by several locals that salties (saltwater crocs) are seen fairly frequently in the area.  Unfortunately for us, we had no such luck spotting one today.

For dinner, we had saved the best for last.  Salsa is a popular, casual restaurant in town that serves modern Australian fare.  Nate enjoyed the kangaroo dish, which he was gamey like elk.
All in all, the day was a good day to relax and fully get into vacation mode.  Tomorrow, we'll be leaving Port Douglas for Sydney and New Years.

Australia: A Day with Pete in the Daintree

Another great day, this time exploring the world's oldest rainforest, the Daintree.  This region of Queensland's slogan is "Where the rainforest meets the reef" and its easy to see why.  Both the reef and the rainforest are World Heritage sites that you can visit as day trips from Port Douglas or Cairns.

It was another early start, but we found a bakery where the locals purchased their bread for the week.  Ashley was especially impressed with the "mini loaf" idea and wishes it would spread to the US because we can never finish a loaf before it molds.  We enjoyed the still warm croissants in our room as we packed for our tour.

Pete, our guide for the day, picked us up at 7:30 in his 4x4 Land Rover Discovery complete with snorkel and radio/intercom for his commentary on the tour.  He runs Heritage & Interpretive Tours which specializes in private tours (2-6 people) in and around the rainforest.  Pete is easily in the running for most interesting person.  He grew up in Kenya, was initiated into a tribe, was a tracker for safaris, established and ran tea plantations in Tanzania and Papua New Guinea, and now has lived and worked in the region as a guide for 17 years.  His wife of 52 years assists with the bookkeeping, baking (delicious cookies), and packs the hearty lunches for Pete and his guests.

To start the day, he took us to a colony of 1600 fruit bats, which are several times larger than the insect eating bats of the US.  They were sleeping in several trees, so Pete took Ashley under one and told her to clap three times.  The bats in and around that tree started making a chorus of noises and squeaks as we watched them move in the trees and a few fly to farther trees.

After the bats, we began the drive to the Daintree.  Pete suddenly pulled off the road and brought out close-up pictures of a mountain we were facing.  This mountain had special meaning to the indigenous aboriginal people called the Bama, with a cleared rock section as the Protector and a larger, but separated section as animals of the forest.  We soon continued the drive as Pete shared information about Dream time, the Rainbow Serpent (creation story), and some of the important locations in the area.  Already, we could tell this was going to be a good trip.

To enter the Daintree, cars must cross the Daintree River on a ferry.  We noticed multiple large signs warning you not to swim in the river due to saltwater crocodiles.  Once across, Pete led us into the rainforest where he would lead us on a 2 hour interpretive hike.

Our first stop was at the Mount Alexandra lookout. We hopped out of the 4X4 and Pete began talking about the environment and surrounding area, including Port Douglas in the distance. It was a nice view of the ocean and along the coast, so Pete volunteered to take our picture. He was soon walking through bushes and plants trying to find the best spot for him to stand to take our photo.

Immediately after our photo op, Pete was began walking around the parking area looking for items of interest. He pointed out nuts, small fruit, starburst ants, camouflaged insects, and plants with seasonal significance to the aborigines. With the promise of even better nature ahead, we climbed back into his vehicle and drove on to the hike.

The hike was along an old, abandoned 4X4 track where someone once lived. After only a few hundred along, the bush soon enveloped the trail and took on the look of a game path.

Pete continued on ahead through and over the ferns and logs until he stopped abruptly and told us to listen. It wasn't until this point that we realized the rainforest was very quiet. Few birds lived here year round because of the scarcity of fruit and nuts, meaning few chirps and songs could be heard. The main prize, if we were lucky, was to see the Cassowary. It's the world's largest flightless bird, but was also known to be very dangerous due to it's claws.

After the brief moment of silence, Pete began stopping more frequently as he identified something to share with us.

What the rainforest lacked in birds, it made up for in insects. Many varieties of ants, termites, caterpillars, spiders, and more could be spotted if one looked closely. One added benefit was that this rainforest had few significant poisonous creatures, which came as a shock to us with Australia's reputation for deadly snakes and spiders. As Pete described it, the Daintree was one of the most forgiving rainforests in the world.

During the hike, we sampled local delicacies such as ants (even Ashley), berries, and flowers.  Pete was sure to point out and explain the medicinal properties of flora along the way.  If we were to ever be stranded in the Daintree rainforest, we had a chance at surviving for a little while since we now know how to treat a toothache, bandage a wound, treat a mossie (mosquito) bite, a jellyfish sting, and what to do (or not to do) if a leech attached to your eyeball.  He was also full of interesting fun facts and stories.  Did you know that termite burps (they can't fart) contribute to carbon emissions?

Eventually, we came to a dry creek bed and shallow pool. This was typically flowing this time of year, but the heavy rains had yet to start. Fortunately, it meant crossing was a breeze. A few minutes later we came to a large tree with huge supporting buttress roots above ground. This was Pete's favorite spot, and he took a few minutes to explain his spiritual connection here.

Opposite the buttress tree was a hollowed out fig tree. These trees are perfectly adapted to the competition for light in the rainforest. They germinate high up in the canopy in other trees and send down a thin root to the ground. Once anchored, it begins growing. Over time, the tree surrounds the host tree and kills it off, often leaving an accessible hollow center. The aborigines of the area used to place bones of their ancestors in these trees, and when the European settlers first came through they had thought erroneously that the trees killed people. Before Nate could ask if he could climb in, Pete offered to take both of our pictures inside the tree.

After the morning hike, we enjoyed a spot of tea and cookies at the 4X4.  Our next stop was further north past Cape Tribulation where we would eat lunch on a secluded beach.

Along the drive, Pete shared more stories of the area and of himself. One of our favorites was of a local artist who was drawing 'before' and 'after' cassowaries on the speed bump signs. The government initially tried to resist and would clean the signs frequently, but with enough local support they finally agreed to permanently leave some as is.

Our lunch spot required a short hike down a tree covered steep slope, but the view and seclusion more than made up for it. We found a mangrove tree that provided shade over some rocks and quietly enjoyed our lunch. Pete even pulled out a wooden Aboriginal toy and demonstrated how the kids used it.

The beach was beautiful and the water seemed inviting, but we weren't able to swim due to the deadly box jellyfish that inhabit the coast this time of year.

In the afternoon, Pete led us on another interpretive hike through mangroves and along the beach.  We really enjoyed our time with Pete in the rainforest and learned quite a bit along the way.  Tomorrow should be a relaxing day on the beach and around Port Douglas.

Australia: Snorkeling The Great Barrier Reef

We had a great day snorkeling on the outer Great Barrier Reef.  Pictures to come shortly.
We woke up early on Boxing Day for our pick up at 8 and were taken to the Marina for our Wavelength tour check-in. We chose them as the operator because tour groups were maxed at 30 and they had several great stops along the outer reef. Our excursion even ended up having two marine biologists for our trip.

The ride out took about an hour, and we were provided muffins, a safety overview, stinger suits complete with a hood and mittens (wet suits), snorkel and mask, and flippers. 

Each of the three snorkel stops would be an hour, with the first at Bashful Bommie on Opal Reef.  This was a free for all snorkel, and everyone split off with their partner/buddy across the reef.

Some of the highlights here included tangs, clownfish, moorish idols (Gill from Finding Nemo), angel fish, blennies, and parrot fish.

The star, though, was the quantity and quality of the coral which would be the recurring theme for the day.

After an hour, we got back on the boat, had a snack, and headed for Long Bommie on Opal Reef. Here we had a guided snorkel with Paul, a marine biologist working in the area for more than 20 years. The other marine biologist, Suz, took a smaller beginner group to another section of the reef.  We followed Paul for about an hour as he showed us Christmas Tree worms (inspiration for creatures in Avatar), giant clams that were 4 feet across, "buffalo" parrot fish, and provided information on the various corals and their health. 

He would frequently free dive down 30+ feet to point out something of interest and to snap pictures. One of his coral examples was to demonstrate how they survive if out of water during low tides.  As the tide recedes and they are exposed to air, the algae living within excretes a protein that is a sticky, milky form of "sunscreen."  Scientists have isolated this protein and have tested a digestible tablet that would give us sun protection for a day or more.

We had lunch on the boat while Paul gave an interesting 15 minute lecture on the reef and how and why it was threatened. While we finished lunch, we traveled to our final stop at Turtle Bay on Tongue Reef.  It was given this name because there were several "cleaning stations" along this section of the reef where several species of turtles would stop to clean their shells. So we had high expectations of spotting Crush.

We followed Paul as he surveyed the known sites and we ended up spotting 5 turtles, though none got within 10 feet.  For his own fun, he stopped the group in a channel between two reef sections and informed us all that we were treading water in shark alley. Most stuck their mask in the water and looked down with some anxiety. Ashley did spot a small white tip reef shark (though she has no evidence). We saw many more corals and fish, but most of our time was spent trying to keep up with the turtles in the EAC... We were soon back on the boat for our hour trip from the outer reef back to the Marina.

Each of the three snorkel stops had something a little different, and each individual site was the best snorkeling we've ever seen. This area of the Great Barrier Reef is somewhere we'd both like to revisit given the chance. On our trip back, Suz mentioned that a spot on the Opal Reef was recently voted the best commercial snorkel site in the world.

Our next day would be a guided tour of another World Heritage site, the Daintree rainforest, which is the oldest rainforest in the world.

Australia: We made it!

We made it safely to Australia. Our travel plans took us through San Francisco for a 30 hour layover, and then through Sydney, on to Cairns, and finally Port Douglas. All total, roughly 24 hours on a plane, another 8 in an airport, and an hour bus ride to top it all off.

We were welcomed to a cold, rainy, windy San Francisco after landing on December 22nd. We caught a cab to downtown, checked in and got a bite to eat at a local place called Oola.

The next morning was still cold, windy, and rainy, but we had a trip to Alcatraz booked. We had missed this on our last visit a few years ago and weren't going to miss it again. Surprisingly, the tours were packed and sold out. After a bumpy, foggy ride we made it to The Rock. No views of the Golden Gate this day. The audio tour was interesting, and we would recommend to any visitors.

The wind really picked up as we were leaving and the ride back had most tourists soaked through.

After the tour we stopped at the Ferry building. This was a unique indoor market that had many local artisianal foods and shops, which sold everything from chocolates, to honey, to "salted pig parts." We bought some dark chocolate almond brittle for the flight. However, the main purpose of this vist to the Ferry building was to eat lunch at Cowgirl Creamery (we had eaten at their original location on our trip a few years back). Their sandwiches and cheese were just as good as Ashley remembered.

We made it to the airport in the evening and waited it out in the large United lounge.  After boarding the plane, we were informed there would be a 45 minutes delay meaning even more time in our seats on top of a 14 hour flight. Following takeoff, the lights went out. Soon, most passengers were tapping their "light" button, which wasn't working. It took a minute or two, but soon we realized that we controlled another row's lights (which was fun for a few). This "feature" resulted in a do not use policy for the remainder of the trip. The 14 hours went faster than expected with several naps, movies, and downloaded shows (now hooked on Downtown Abbey).

After landing Christmas morning, Customs was quick and we were soon checked in to our flight to Cairns. We had 3 hours until our flight so we explored the Qantas terminal, which a large variety of restaurants and boutique shops. We ate at "Pie Face." We then boarded our flight at our own "leisure."
After a 14+ hour flight, three hours was a drop in a bucket. Qantas had the friendliest flight attendants we've experienced on a domestic flight. The highlight of the flight was a mango ice cream bar served just before landing.

It was definitely a different Christmas feel to get off the plane in Cairns with the weather feeling like a midsummer day in Florida.

We arrived in Port Douglas after a one hour bus ride along a scenic, winding road where the rainforest covered mountains met the Pacific Ocean.  We checked in at our accommodation, Le Cher du Monde, along the main street and finally cleaned up after 30 hours of travel. 

Because it was Christmas, dining options were limited, so we walked to a Chinese restaurant called Han Court.  Ashley really enjoyed the authentic spicy chicken peanut dish (think Kung Pao).  They had Christmas music playing lightly in the background, and our favorite was Dreaming of a White Christmas.

Exhausted, we crashed once we got back to our room around 9.  The next day would be a long day snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef.