London Day 3 - Churchill War Rooms, Westminster Walk, and a Pub Tour
A light drizzle met us as we left our hotel for the short walk to our tube stop where we bought another daily pass and tubed to Westminster again in to begin the Westminister Audio Guided walk from Rick Steves. The walk is roughly a 45 minute narrated walk that starts on the Westminster Bridge, follows along White Hall, and ultimately ends in Trafalgar Square. It was a nice way to admire and learn some of the history of the sites in the area at our own pace.
Our first major stop after Westminster and Parliament Square was the Churchill War rooms, conveniently only a 100 yard walk off the narrated route. So, we paused our walking tour to explore this incredibly interesting museum. The museum contains two distinct sections: one on Churchill's life and the other on the underground meeting rooms and living quarters from World War 2. These dimly lit rooms under the Treasury building were essentially where Churchill and his advisers ran the European war effort for five years.
Our first major stop after Westminster and Parliament Square was the Churchill War rooms, conveniently only a 100 yard walk off the narrated route. So, we paused our walking tour to explore this incredibly interesting museum. The museum contains two distinct sections: one on Churchill's life and the other on the underground meeting rooms and living quarters from World War 2. These dimly lit rooms under the Treasury building were essentially where Churchill and his advisers ran the European war effort for five years.
Amazingly, the rooms were locked up and abandoned after Hitler's surrender so they are well preserved and look exactly how they did in the 1940's. In addition to the preserved rooms, the large museum exhibit focuses on the life and political career of Churchill. It was particularly interesting that he was born during the days of cavalry charges and his career ended in the midst of a nuclear arms race. This is definitely worth a stop to see and learn about one of the 20th century's most influential figures. His determination and leadership in a time with little hope still inspires today.
Exiting the war rooms, we continued along the walking tour up Whitehall and passed by #10 Downing Street. Down a little further, we noticed a growing crowd outside the Horse Guard Parade gates. No one really knew what was going on, but there was definitely a formal presentation with military pageantry going on within the Parade grounds. With some patience, we found our way to the edge of the gate for a view through an arch into the square. There was a covered section with many brightly uniformed men (i.e. red coats) marching their horses passed. It wasn't until we spotted a small figure dressed in a light blue coat with a matching hat that we realized it was...THE QUEEN.
After some quick searches on our phones, we learned the Queen was presenting the new Standards to the Household Cavalry Regimen. We're still not exactly sure what that means, but it involved a lot of pageantry and marching and military members. Regardless, we (mostly Ashley) were beyond excited to spot Her Majesty from a distance. Sadly, we (again...Ashley) failed to spot Prince Harry although he was in attendance. We thought we may gain an even closer view since the royal automobiles were parked just a few yards away, but this was a silly hope since the cars obviously go to the Queen rather than her going to the automobiles. It's nice to be Queen.
The Queen certainly wasn't on our site seeing list, which made this short, unexpected spotting a truly memorable experience. With our Queen viewing complete, we ended the guided walk in Trafalgar Square admiring the view of Big Ben in the distance. Even with the wet weather the square was full of people taking pictures with the lion statues or watching one of several entertainers.
For lunch we ducked into the St. Martin in the Fields Crypt Cafe just off Trafalgar Square. The cafe was, quite literally, in the crypt of the namesake church. While ordering from the buffet and finding a seat we noticed the names of monks and other past clergy or laymen on the floor who were buried beneath our feet. A very unique dining experience, plus the food was pretty good! It was nice to find an affordable lunch option in the expensive heart of London.
For the afternoon, we had booked a tour of historic pubs in London with Mind the Gap. Our guide, Kat, met us at the London Bridge tube stop. After quick introductions, Kat led us on a walk through "the City" including crossing the Thames on Millennium Bride. Although we assumed our tour group would consist of other tourists, a few locals from London and its suburbs also joined the tour - it was nice to know we were definitely visiting hidden gems. Over the next four hours, we stopped at five pubs, which included one bonus visit. Fortunately, the rain held off for this tour.
First stop - The George Inn, which was re-built in the 17th century and is one of the only remaining galleried inns in London. Centuries ago, plays would take place in the courtyard and Londoners would watch from the balconies. It was also a favorite among famous Brits such as Dickens and Churchill.
For the afternoon, we had booked a tour of historic pubs in London with Mind the Gap. Our guide, Kat, met us at the London Bridge tube stop. After quick introductions, Kat led us on a walk through "the City" including crossing the Thames on Millennium Bride. Although we assumed our tour group would consist of other tourists, a few locals from London and its suburbs also joined the tour - it was nice to know we were definitely visiting hidden gems. Over the next four hours, we stopped at five pubs, which included one bonus visit. Fortunately, the rain held off for this tour.
First stop - The George Inn, which was re-built in the 17th century and is one of the only remaining galleried inns in London. Centuries ago, plays would take place in the courtyard and Londoners would watch from the balconies. It was also a favorite among famous Brits such as Dickens and Churchill.
After enjoying a pint (or a half pint in Ashley's case...why don't American bars offer this option?), we crossed the Millennium Bridge and stopped at Cockpit, our bonus pub, for another beverage near St. Paul's.
Although a somewhat "new" pub by London standards, the Blackfriar, with it's Art deco meets monastery style, seemed to be a staple and favorite in the area. Notice the monastic reliefs above the bar.
As we enjoyed our pints of "Proper Job" and "Aviator", we socialized with one of the local couples on our tour and even gave them advice for their upcoming trip to Disney.
Next stop: Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, which is perhaps the most famous, historic pub in London. We had a chuckle after noting on the sign that it was "rebuilt" in 1667, which is more than 100 years before the Declaration of Independence.
We descended multiple levels of narrow and winding stairways into the cellar for a couple more pints and a discussion of Premier League
Princess Louisa, our final stop, had the most interesting interior of all the pubs we visited. Partitioned compartments (like Victorian cubicles) allowed patrons to partake in the pub scene without having to mingle with commoners. Unfortunately, four hours into a pub tour, we were more interested in socializing than photography so we don't have any pictures of the inside of the bar. You'll have to check it out yourself to see what we mean.
After a somewhat disappointing Fish 'n Chips dinner experience, we enjoyed our hotel's famous cheesecake (which was shockingly similar to Ashley's recipe - they clearly stole it from her) before getting some much needed rest after another long day of sightseeing.
London Day 4 - Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's, Afternoon Tea, British Library, and London at Night
Our last day in London turned out to be our first non-rainy day. It was nice to see people walking along without umbrellas. Happy for the pleasant day, we headed out to see some of the remaining sites on our list.
We once again hopped on the Tube and got off at the Westminster station - we were beginning to feel like commuters. Exiting the station, we headed towards the first stop of the day - Westminster Abbey. Since admission lines can snake around the building later in the day, we made sure to arrive in time for opening.
After leaving the Abbey, we took advantage of the "sunny" skies to pose in front of Big Ben and the House of Parliament. It had definitely brightened up a bit.
Once inside, we donned our headphones to listen to an audio guide included in the price of admission. Over the next hour or so, we toured the abbey that is home to dead kings, queens, scientists, and poets and serves as the stage for Royal weddings and coronations.
After leaving the Abbey, we took advantage of the "sunny" skies to pose in front of Big Ben and the House of Parliament. It had definitely brightened up a bit.
We traveled from Westminster to The City to see another of London's iconic landmarks - St. Paul's Cathedral. Since an audioguide is not included, we once again listened to Rick Steves on our phone as he guided us through St. Paul's. The Cathedral with its impressive dome served as a symbol of hope and resilience during WWII as it miraculously survived bombing during the blitz.
Since St. Paul's is in the financial district, we noticed lots of businesspeople in suits picnicking on the grounds of the Church enjoying the first sunshine in days.
After our tour of St. Paul's, we stopped by Bea's of Bloomsbury to enjoy a spot of tea (reservations recommended). It seemed necessary before leaving London. Plus, Ashley wholeheartedly endorses this tradition and wishes it would catch on in the States. Who doesn't appreciate a lovely spread of petite sandwiches, scones, cupcakes, and other sweets on cute trays?
Recaffinated and with a satisfied sweet tooth, we tubed to King's Cross station, which is a tourist destination in and of itself for one wizardly reason: Platform 9 and 3/4. Here children, teenagers, unsuspecting boyfriends, and Ashley eagerly waited for a chance to push their luggage trolley "through" the wall to catch the next train to Hogwarts. Ashley really struggled to choose between Gryffindor and Ravenclaw scarves, but ultimately succumbed to peer pressure and donned the burgundy and gold (she refuses to say garnet...). However, we all know the Sorting Hat would place her in the Ravenclaw house.
Right next door to King's Cross is the beautifully renovated St. Pancras Station, where international trains depart and arrive. We heard Londoners joke they could go to Paris for lunch in less time than it takes to get to York.
Across the street from St. Pancras was the British Library, our true destination for the afternoon. A large statue of Isaac Newton, famous for his scientific contributions, greets visitors outside. Within, the British Library houses many of the world's most treasured documents and artifacts.
Once again, we turned to our old friend Rick Steves for his Audio guide, which was made somewhat challenging due to rotating exhibits. The core collection included illuminated manuscripts, a Guttenburg Bible, letters from Darwin and Galileo, Da Vinci's notebooks, the Magna Carta, an 11th century copy of Beowolf, Beatles lyrics, and more. Even if old manuscripts and documents aren't your thing, it's such an impressive display of many important historical artifacts that it is well worth the visit. Plus, it's free - always a bonus in this pricey city.
Since this was the first non-rainy day of the London portion of our journey, we didn't want to waste any time inside, so we tubed back to Westminster for some people watching and photo opportunities.
In the evening we finally made it a priority to eat some Indian food, something we had been told was a must. Though not something we typically eat at home, it turned out to be a nice break from Pub fare.
With a nice evening shaping up, we completed one final Rick Steves walk (book - not audio guide) through the West End and Soho. It was a pleasant, casual stroll from Leicester Square and past Covent Garden, the music shops along Denmark Street (where Elton John started out), through Soho, and ultimately ending near Piccadilly Circus. It was a unique and relaxing way to see London and its people at night.
Right next door to King's Cross is the beautifully renovated St. Pancras Station, where international trains depart and arrive. We heard Londoners joke they could go to Paris for lunch in less time than it takes to get to York.
Across the street from St. Pancras was the British Library, our true destination for the afternoon. A large statue of Isaac Newton, famous for his scientific contributions, greets visitors outside. Within, the British Library houses many of the world's most treasured documents and artifacts.
Once again, we turned to our old friend Rick Steves for his Audio guide, which was made somewhat challenging due to rotating exhibits. The core collection included illuminated manuscripts, a Guttenburg Bible, letters from Darwin and Galileo, Da Vinci's notebooks, the Magna Carta, an 11th century copy of Beowolf, Beatles lyrics, and more. Even if old manuscripts and documents aren't your thing, it's such an impressive display of many important historical artifacts that it is well worth the visit. Plus, it's free - always a bonus in this pricey city.
Since this was the first non-rainy day of the London portion of our journey, we didn't want to waste any time inside, so we tubed back to Westminster for some people watching and photo opportunities.
See the proof of blue skies in the photo below!
With a nice evening shaping up, we completed one final Rick Steves walk (book - not audio guide) through the West End and Soho. It was a pleasant, casual stroll from Leicester Square and past Covent Garden, the music shops along Denmark Street (where Elton John started out), through Soho, and ultimately ending near Piccadilly Circus. It was a unique and relaxing way to see London and its people at night.
Not quite ready to say good bye to the London sites, we made one more visit to the Westminster area for some nighttime sightseeing and photography. Irritatingly, one corner of the Houses of Parliament building refused to light up.
The London Eye was particularly pretty with it's blue hue. We're sure a nighttime turn around the Ferris wheel would provide great views of the illuminated city.
A word of caution if you want to view London landmarks at night, the House of Parliament and Big Ben go completely dark once the clock strikes midnight in Cinderella-like fashion. With the city dark, we cabbed back to hotel, exhausted with tired feet as we managed to squeeze in just about all of our London must-dos.
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