Edinburgh
Our train arrived in Edinburgh with the sun providing only an hour more of light. Our hotel, The Glasshouse (Marriott), was close enough to the train station to comfortably walk with luggage in tow. Immediately, we noticed a harder, grungier feel of the city and its residents compared London. This isn't said with any real negativity, but the difference was quite evident during the 10 minute walk to our hotel. In contrast to London, we received one of the nicest room upgrades yet to a large suite with a bathroom larger than our master bedroom at home. Edinburgh was looking good already.
To further the positive vibe, we splurged for dinner at 21212, one of several Michelin Star restaurants that Edinburgh claims. The concept was unique, with each number representing a course and the number of options to choose from for that course (though they had deviated somewhat, allowing each diner to choose from 3 items from the first, third, and fifth courses). To add to the experience, we were seated at a small table for two in a corner that overlooked the small Victorian room, bringing back memories of sitting at our sweetheart table from our wedding. It was a very nice evening showcasing Scottish hospitality.
To further the positive vibe, we splurged for dinner at 21212, one of several Michelin Star restaurants that Edinburgh claims. The concept was unique, with each number representing a course and the number of options to choose from for that course (though they had deviated somewhat, allowing each diner to choose from 3 items from the first, third, and fifth courses). To add to the experience, we were seated at a small table for two in a corner that overlooked the small Victorian room, bringing back memories of sitting at our sweetheart table from our wedding. It was a very nice evening showcasing Scottish hospitality.
We started the next morning early with another dose of Harry Potter. The Elephant House, just off the Royal Mile, is a now well known coffee shop with views of the castle where JK Rowling worked on her first Harry Potter novels. The view through the window of the Castle makes it very easy to understand where the inspiration for Hogwarts hilltop setting came from.
To avoid long lines, we had booked tickets ahead of time and picked them up from a machine located just inside the first gate. As with most attractions that charge admission, visitors can join a 30 minute tour led by a Scot with authentic accent to get a brief history and explanation of the layout of the Castle.
Along the way we saw royal apartments, the great hall, and St. Margaret's Chapel which is the oldest surviving building on the site (12th century) and only seats about 20 people. The tour ended at the highest square where everyone was released for their own exploration. Conveniently, this is also where visitors could access and see the Scottish Crown Jewels, including the famous Stone of Scone (also known as the Coronation Stone by the conquering English).
By exiting the outer gate, we were dumped into the main plaza at the top of the Royal Mile (note: Preparation was underway for the famed Military Tattoo while were there). Armed with our last Rick Steves audio guide of the trip, we began an easy downhill stroll along the Royal Mile towards Holyrood Palace.
But, we didn't make it too far before stopping at Scottish Whiskey Experience, or as Rick calls it, 'Malt Disney.' A goofy but informative barrel ride tour (a la the Haunted Mansion at Disney) is led by a ghostly hologram that explains the end-to-end process for making Scotch Whiskey. Disembarking the barrel, we read a few more signage boards before entering a tasting room complete with scratch and sniff cards that explain the four whiskey regions of Scotland. Using the regional smells and styles, each visitor chose their pour of whiskey.
For the final experience, the largest collection of Scotch Whiskey was on display. None were opened, but some had a noticeable amount missing due to the Angel's Share (evaporation, for those who missed this barrel of fun). In true Disney fashion, the tour ends in a gift shop with a multitude of brands and sizes for souvenirs. All kidding aside, its a fun and interesting way to learn about and try this famous drink of Scotland. But mainly, the experience confirmed we will probably never become Scotch drinkers.
But, we didn't make it too far before stopping at Scottish Whiskey Experience, or as Rick calls it, 'Malt Disney.' A goofy but informative barrel ride tour (a la the Haunted Mansion at Disney) is led by a ghostly hologram that explains the end-to-end process for making Scotch Whiskey. Disembarking the barrel, we read a few more signage boards before entering a tasting room complete with scratch and sniff cards that explain the four whiskey regions of Scotland. Using the regional smells and styles, each visitor chose their pour of whiskey.
For the final experience, the largest collection of Scotch Whiskey was on display. None were opened, but some had a noticeable amount missing due to the Angel's Share (evaporation, for those who missed this barrel of fun). In true Disney fashion, the tour ends in a gift shop with a multitude of brands and sizes for souvenirs. All kidding aside, its a fun and interesting way to learn about and try this famous drink of Scotland. But mainly, the experience confirmed we will probably never become Scotch drinkers.
Resuming our audioguided tour, we continued down the Royal Mile learning about the buildings, famous inhabitants, and statues, with occasional stops in the tourist shops in an attempt to find the perfect Christmas ornament. It's a very active and busy stretch, and we found locals selling their arts and crafts to many of the passers-by. Some of the highlights along the way included St. Giles Church (John Knox and Scotland's Westminster), Robert Louis Stevenson's Jeckel and Hyde inspired by Deacon Brodie, and Canongate Church (the Royal church in Scotland where Ashley sang as teenager - somehow she remembered sky blue pews). At the bottom of the Royal Mile we found the new Parliament building and lastly the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
Having completed the Royal Mile, we made our way towards Grassmarket, a popular young spot for drinks, food, and as we found out, hen parties. Of the several fun looking pubs in the main plaza, we chose the crudely named Last Drop to take a break from walking. Apparently the Grassmarket was a place for public hangings in the past, but despite the name this historic pub was quite lively.
Not much past Grassmarket is the beautiful Princess Street Gardens with stunning views of the Edinburgh Castle towering above.
Locals were out and about, lounging throughout the park an enjoying the first sunny day in a while.
Due to the positive weather and long hours of sunlight, we had plenty of time to climb Calton Hill for panoramic views of the city, Arthur's Seat, the Firth of Forth, and various monuments at the top.
Having splurged the night before, we instead went with something lighter and different - a tasting plate at a Swedish run pub/coffee house called Joseph Pearce (for those wondering, their meatballs are better than Ikea's). Outdoor patios at pubs were especially popular this evening, and Joseph Pearce was no exception.
For one final view of Edinburgh, we hiked back up Calton Hill once more for evening photography of the sunset over Edinburgh. This of course didn't happen until after 10 pm, but it was well worth the effort..
And this brought our brief United Kingdom trip to a close. We had a blast, and it couldn't have ended on a nicer day. Now, time to fly back to the States and finish planning for our next adventures!
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