New Zealand: We're going on an adventure (Hobbiton)

Today we passed through sheep covered hills on the way to Hobbiton, the only set left behind from the Hobbit movies.  But Rotorua, famous for its geothermal areas, was our ultimate destination for the day.
During breakfast, Janet (the owner) heard we would be visiting Hobbiton today.  She was soon sharing stories about how part of the movie crew stayed at her B&B for several weeks during the filming of the Hobbit.  She even had a document left behind that detailed one week's filming itinerary.  Hobbit fever was evident in the area, and it wasn't just the tourists.  It was an interesting start to a day featuring a visit to Middle Earth.

As we got closer to Hobbiton it quickly became apparent why this area was selected.  Rolling hills, sheep, ponds, and occasional trees looked just as the book (and movie) described.

You can't actually drive up to the set, but you do park in a well marked base camp with cafe' and gift shop.  With no other food for 30 minutes, we grabbed a bite while we waited for our tour. 

It was a 10 minute bus ride on a gravel road through a private farm to get to Hobbiton.  During the bus ride our tour guide provided some commentary on how the location was found, why the set has survived, and that 10,000+ sheep still live on the farm surrounding Hobbiton.  The area was chosen after aerial surveillance by movie crew identified a large tree set upon a lake.  Imagine owning a farm and having a representative of Peter Jackson showing up to reach an agreement to film on your land.  It was found on Peter's Jackson birthday, so he calls it the birthday tree (just as in the movie).  The farm owner, however, calls it the money tree.  Its also evident how much the films meant to New Zealand and how important privacy was to Peter Jackson.  The New Zealand military built the unpaved road to the set off the main road and enforced a no fly zone to ensure secrecy.

After the Lord of the Rings, the movie crew took most of the set items (including the colored doors) down.  They still ran tours after, but not much was viewable other than white painted hobbit holes.  Following the Hobbit the set was left as is (the only one), including the living gardens in the area.  They still had gardeners maintaining the area, some of whom we saw on our tour.  We were encouraged with how well the area looked as we pulled in.

Our guide led us into the set area after the short ride.  During busy days the tours still make sure to space out the groups by about 30 minutes, meaning we weren't bumping up against the group in front of us. 

The Hobbit holes came in two sizes, one small for scale (compared to human height like Gandalf), the other normal size (normal for Hobbit height). 

The gardens still looked like the movies, and clothes lines with clothes flapping in the wind and other set pieces like firewood (Hobbit sized of course) were still about. Ashley had to try out some of the hobbit work tools that were around.

We had intermittent free time along with guided sections for the first 30 minutes.  This allowed us time to walk along the paths and explore the hobbit holes near the bottom of the set.

We eventually worked our way up to Bag End, Bilbo's home.  The bench out front is the actual one used within the movies and the tree is completely reconstructed (fake).  This was the most popular photo op of the day and the longest we spent in one area. 

From Bag End we could see down across the whole of Hobbiton including the Party tree, the lake, and the Green Dragon beyond. It was easy to feel as if we were actually in the Shire.

Shortly beyond Bag End was the lone Hobbit hole that we could enter. It was only 4 or 5 feet deep, providing just enough space for a camera crew to fit inside and shoot outward.

We continued down the path into the clearing with the party tree, famous for the birthday scene and fireworks from the first Lord of the Rings movie.  The grassy area was reclaimed swamp, and a fence along the side attracted our attention.  This was the fence that Bilbo jumped over in the Hobbit while shouting "I'm going on an adventure" (also in trailer).  We both thought for sure Nate would be the bigger nerd today, but it was actually Ashley who reenacted the scene after having said the quote since landing in New Zealand.  She grabbed the tour pamphlet and jogged to the fence for her photo. 

The last stop was the Green Dragon, an authentic (and recently opened) pub along the lake.  We enjoyed our  specially brewed beer while looking back towards Hobbiton. 

Once back at the main visitor center, Ashley was in search of sheep. She claimed she was disinterested in feeding sheep unless it was out of a bottle, but the only option was pellets today. Ashley stood back from a family with small children as they approached the sheep who had come up along the fence. Before Nate knew it, Ashley had the pellets in her hand and sheep reaching out to her. She seemed to enjoy it despite not using a bottle.

Overall, it was a fun experience seeing the actual movie set for a series we both enjoy.  Though expensive, if you have time and are nearby, we would both recommend a stop in the Shire.

The rest of the trip to Rotorua was uneventful, but pretty.  Our route took us around the north end of the lake, so we got views that most don't pass by.  We arrived at Rising Trout B&B on the east coast of the lake about 15 minutes from town.  Dave, Liz, and their dog Elsie greeted us as we came to the door.  After some tea and 30 minutes of chatting they encouraged us to go to Te Puia, one of the geothermal area that stayed open late enough for us to visit still.

Te Puia is most known for their Maori cultural experience and their impressive geysers.  We got in a little after 4, and based on a tip decided to follow the guide (ended up being for the dinner group).  The geysers go off for about 70 minutes every two hours, so after a quick confirmation we were soon heading that way. 

It was the first time Ashley had seen a geyser (other than Wilderness Lodge at Disney), so heaps of photos ensued.

After 20 minutes around the geyser the group moved on to the Kiwi hut, which was essentially an enclosure that housed a northern brown kiwi (the bird).  He was darting all over in the dark trying to eat as much as possible before his day (night actually) was over.

Moving on, the tour went to the Maori cultural area as our guide talked about the main buildings and their history.  The buildings were lined with intricate wood carvings that told oral histories, much as totems do in the pacific northwest. 

Our last stop was passing through the craft schools where we got to see some of the younger male artisans carving the next wooden marvels and females weaving goods from plant materials.

Following Te Puia, we drove back around the lake to Hamurana Springs based on a tip from Dave and Liz.  This area has a 100 year old California Redwood grove along a crystal clear freshwater spring.

It was a nice 45 minute hike through the grove and springs. For only being 100 years old, the trees were gigantic.

We decided on dinner in town mostly so we could visit the Pig and Whistle, an old police station that had been converted to a bar. It had a fun ambiance and was a good way to end the evening. Tomorrow we'd be visiting Wai-o-tapu, another geothermal park before heading south to Tongariro National Park.

New Zealand: Abseiling, Caving, and Glowworms in Waitomo

It was a 2 hour drive from the Auckland airport to Waitomo.  Waitomo is best known for its many caves and the glowworms that live inside.  In some of the caves you can even tube or raft in the dark.
We had decided on a private tour with Paul of Green Glow EcoAdventures.  Besides being private, Paul allowed and encouraged photography in the caves (most tours did not).  He even provided tripods and flash guns for long exposures which would allow for photographing of the glowworms.

The address for his company actually took us to his house in a rural area past the main Waitomo Caves area. The caves he would take us to were actually on private land and only he had an agreement to take visitors there.  These caves were also twice as long as the main Waitomo Caves, where up to 2000 tourists visit in a day.  Needless to say, we'd be with Paul alone in the caves and able to move at our own pace. 

Paul met us outside and was extremely friendly from the get-go.  He fitted us for thermals, shorts, fleeces, gum boots, helmets with lights, and harness. The outfits were very stylish and Nate looked similar to a Smurf after he had changed.  Paul then talked with Nate about photography, gear, settings for in the cave, and which lens to use.  He was extremely excited when Nate showed him his wide angle lens.  Paul had just ordered one and would not receive it for several more weeks, and he was eager to use Nate's for some shots he had thought up.  While packing the gear, Paul had his two young kids hunt for snails in the garden.

We drove to a nearby farm and stopped near a slight downward slope with ropes.  This was Paul's training area, and he casually walked us through how to abseil.  Through friction, our harness and control of the rope would allow for a controlled descent down nearly 100 feet.  After two practice rounds on a the hill, we both felt comfortable and agreed to begin the caves. 

A ten minute hike took us to the beginning of rope attached to a rock face.  We used two small ropes with  carabiners to navigate safely along the rockface until we were staring down 27 m (~ 90 ft) into a small, lush canyon where the cave started.  Paul walked us through the techniques one more time and attached a safety rope to Nate's harness. 

It was intimidating staring down over the ledge the first time.  Nate slowly bent his knees until all his weight was on the harness.  Turning slightly, he put his feet on the wall below the ledge and began his descent.  The first 15 seconds seemed to take forever as your brain processes floating nearly 100 feet up.  But once you feel in control you have the opportunity to look around and enjoy the surroundings.  It was over in two to three minutes, and Nate unstrapped from below for Ashley's turn.

With everyone below, Paul took us for a short hike down the stream that exited the caves we would soon be entering.  He had worked as a geologist earlier in his career and was happy to point out and explain rocks and fossils along the way.

To enter the first cave, we had to get low and nearly crawl for the first 10 yards.  Ashley was not a fan of this part and Paul teased her that it was only going to get worse.  The cave soon opened up into a large cavern, making Ashley much happier.  Paul led us deeper into the cave with our helmets as the only light.  We were sure to follow closely as he maneuvered over and around boulders and rocks in the cave. 

He stopped on a large boulder and invited us to sit down with him and turn off our lights.  It instantly became dark, with a very faint light bouncing in from the entrance.  The only other lights visible were small, green "stars" on the ceiling.  These were the glowworms, to which we were oblivious just moments before when our helmet lights were on.  As our eyes adjusted to the dark, more became visible along the roof of the cave.  This was to be our lunch picnic spot surrounded by glowworms in the dark.

Paul explained to us that glowworms are actually fly larvae.  The adult females lay eggs in damp, dark locations (not always caves) where they hatch and move to a desirable location nearby.  They create a sticky silk strand that dangles a few inches from the ceiling.  Their glow is a trap that attracts other small, flying insects who mistake them for stars.  We would later get a chance to see them up close with our helmet lights on, and they looked like a tiny earthworm with silk drooping down around them.  It was pretty easy to see why they got their name.  Nate also brushed a silk strand with his finger and it stuck much like a spider's web until he pulled away with too much force.

This area was also one of Paul's favorite for photography.  Each cave shot takes some time for set up, but Paul has been guiding and exploring these caves for more than 6 years.  A tripod for the camera is set up first.  Then you need light to be shined onto an object or person to set focus.  Then, any off-camera flash need to be configured and placed to appropriately light part of the cave or person.  Lastly, several test shots are taken to make sure the frame, focus, and lighting are right.  Most cave shots we took ranged from 30 to 90 seconds, with just a quick burst of light on the target area.  Some of the tighter spaces could be faster with flash.

After a few good shots we packed up and continued deeper into the cave.  The next stop was an area where stalactites and stalagmites were within hand's reach.  Paul's paths throughout the caves were meant to avoid contact with cave structures where possible in order to preserve the natural growth and look.  In a small "clearing" we set up photography gear for some photos encircled by stalactites and stalagmites.

As we were packing up the gear Ashley noticed ropes and hooks leading down a black crevasse further into the cave.  Our second abseil would be in the dark.  Nate went first, a common theme for the day.  With just his helmet for light, he descended down the rope until feeling a small ledge.  This section's ceiling was much lower, with glowworms within arm's reach.  Once everyone was down, Paul showed us what they looked like and how they fed.

We were soon outside one of the cave entrances following a few minutes of scrambling over rocks.  Paul led us upstream to an area where the water was calmer under a small rock ledge.  Paul brought out a plastic bag which contained the snails found earlier in the morning.  He held the snail upstream in flowing water, and after 30 seconds a two foot long eel swam out from under the ledge towards Paul.  Apparently they had a great sense of smell and a fondness for snails.  We both got to feed the eel, but only Nate was willing to touch it. 

The next section was to be the largest of the glowworm caves we would visit.  Paul led us in, and 10 minutes later our lights were off and our eyes focused up.  Hundreds, maybe thousands, of green dots lined the top of the cave.  We sat in silence for several minutes before setting up for some photos in this area.  Having a wide angle lens with us, Paul had several new ideas for shots that he had always wanted to try.  We ended up with a unique photo with Nate silhouetted in the cave, Ashley lit up in focus, and glowworms above.

Exiting this cave, we had one more abseil to our last entrance of the day.  Feeling more comfortable, we both took our time and enjoyed looking around during the descent. 

Paul had one more spot to show us, one that was best in the afternoon. We entered the last cave and turned around to see the trees and plants with just the right amount of light. It was a wonderful contrast against the dark walls of the cave.

The day had flown by - we had been in the caves for six hours. Already over time, Paul led us on the hike out of the gulch and back to his truck. A short drive took us back to Paul's house, where he happily showed us the pictures of the day on his computer (he even emailed a few for us to post).  It had been great day, one of the best of our trip.

Tired, but only somewhat dirty, we checked in at Waitomo Caves Guest Lodge in town.  A nice dinner at Huhu cafe across the street capped our day as we watched the sunset over the hills.

Tomorrow would take us into the Shire and then to Rotorua.  It will be fun to see who would be the bigger nerd in Hobbiton.