Yosemite: A Bike Ride in the Valley (Part 1)

After spending several days in less crowded areas of the park, it was finally time to descend into the valley for a few days to complete our visit to Yosemite.  Leaving from Glacier Point, highway 41 once again took us through the Wawona Tunnel to one of the best views of the Valley - Tunnel View.

Each time we passed this point (going or leaving), Nate was sure to hop out for a few minutes to snap a few pictures.  Though the waterfalls were light this time of year, the overall scale of the scene was impressive each stop.  Both of us want to return earlier in the year for our next visit to see the full scale of these massive waterfalls (that is, assuming a decent winter snowfall).

We'd driven through on a few occasions, but had not spent more than a few minutes in traffic on our way to another section of the park.  The high country was warm, but the valley would have a high of around 100 each of the days that we'd be there.  This, as well as the crowds, would play a part in our plans over the next two days.

We had made reservations at the Yosemite Lodge, and after a brief wait (rooms aren't ready until 5 pm...never seen that before) we were getting ready for our dinner at Ahwanee Lodge.

The Ahwanee is a site in and of itself in the Yosemite Valley.  Designated a National Historic Landmark, the design creates the appearance of blending in with the granite walls towering above.  Rooms are expensive, but the grounds are open to any visitor.  Dinner reservations are also a great excuse to visit, enjoy good food and wine, and to wander a luxurious lodge that would seem out of place if it hadn't been there for nearly 90 years.

Bike Ride in the Valley

The next morning we rose early to catch the morning light in the valley.  Our primary goal was to watch the first rays of sunlight hit the top of El Capitan.  We found a quiet spot near Cathedral Beach to patiently watch the glow slowly cover the top of this famous granite wall.

With few visitors out of bed, we made another stop at Swinging Bridge before heading back to our hotel.  This stretch of the Merced River would later be swarming with rafts and other 'beach goers' trying to keep cool in the heat.

The Yosemite Lodge is conveniently located across the street from the main viewing area and trails for the famed Yosemite Falls.  Despite growling stomachs, we saw an opportunity of good lighting and few people so we crossed the street and craned our necks nearly 2,500 feet upward to see the water tumbling over the granite cliff far above.  Having seen the valley from above and the floor, it's hard not to be in awe of the sheer magnitude of the towering granite walls all around.

After a quick breakfast at the onsite cafeteria, we were soon picking out our rental bikes for the day.  The Yosemite Valley roads and parking lots are frequently congested, but the bike trails present an alternative and easy way of getting around the eastern half of the valley (for more info, click here).

Still early to combat the heat, we began the bike loop with our first major stop at Mirror Lake.  After stashing our bikes on a rack, we did the short (and shaded) 1 mile hike in the shadow of Half Dome.  The lake, which is really a series of pools, lived up to its name.  Though several had already become swimming holes, a shallow pool provided a perfect reflection of a distant dome.  Somewhat strange, a cairn "graveyard" gave additional height to frame a few photos.

As the morning went on, the temperatures continued to rise into the 90's.  As a result, many visitors were flocking to the river to stay cool.  And what a view.

Yosemite Village was swarming with visitors.  It was difficult adjusting to the crowds after having spent the previous days in less populous areas. It took more than 10 minutes just to find a picnic table for lunch.  In addition to food and the visitor center, an Ansel Adams photography studio is onsite.  This is a must for any visitor to stop by to gaze at some of the most iconic photos of America.  

Leaving the epicenter for the crowds behind, we rode through a meadow with a grand view of Half Dome before arriving at our starting point to complete the loop.

With all the visitors during the summer, renting bikes was the perfect option to get around and explore the eastern valley without having to worry about parking spots or waiting on the shuttle.  Even in the heat, there was often shade and the path itself was flat for most of the ride.

Our afternoon was spent in the western half of the valley, meaning we'd have to drive and hope for a parking spot.  Fortunately, the heat seemed to be keeping most visitors near the rivers and closer to the facilities of the eastern half.  Our first stop was another iconic viewpoint - Valley View.  The Merced River runs through the foreground of an expansive view up the valley.
  

Our second stop was at Brivalveil Falls, only a wisp of a waterfall in early July due to below average snowfall.  As it's name implies, the wind would catch much of the water and create a wider, mistier flow as the the falls neared the bottom.

We had noticed a Ranger Talk at Glacier Point for the evening.  Following a quick dinner, we made our way back up to catch the sunset and listen to the ranger talk about the massive waterfalls of Yosemite.  For Ashley, the most interesting part of the talk was that it was given by a seasonal ranger who had retired from his career and then went to a different National Park to work each summer with his wife.  Sounds like a dream retirement!  (Note: On a separate trip, Ashley sat next to another seasonal ranger on a plane and had a longer conversation about what it was like.  So this is happening...in 30 years).

Along with a few others, we decided to stay an hour after sunset to see the stars come out over Half Dome.  As the sky darkened, the Milky Way became visible and made the wait well worth it.

All in all, it was a good day in the Valley.  Extremely crowded, but we got around easily and saw most of what we wanted to without feeling like we were bumping into someone else.  What would the next day bring?