Yosemite: The Valley Part 2

Glacier Point again?  You betcha!  Only this time, we'd be taking a shuttle to the top and then hiking back down along the Panorama Trail (make sure to reserve the shuttle ahead of time, and yes, you have to pay).  We chose the earliest shuttle to get started before it was too hot, as well as in the hopes that it would mean less hikers.  

Besides the fact that this hike goes down into the Valley, it was great for several other reasons: unique views of Half Dome and the valley, less populated (for the upper part), and the hike includes the Mist Trail which passes both Vernal and Nevada Falls.  In other words, it was our favorite hike in(to) the Valley.

The nine mile hike would take us down to Illuote creek, up across the ridge, and then down again past the waterfalls to the Valley floor, where we'd pick up the Valley Shuttle back to our hotel.

While some on the shuttle were using it for a round trip ride to and from Glacier Point, the rest were intent on hiking down like us.  Those hiking naturally spread out following the mandatory photos at the top and multiple viewpoints shortly after.  One solo hiker put us to shame, having already completed the hike up via Four Mile Trial by the time we reached Glacier Point in the shuttle.  He'd also beat us down to the valley floor.

The path gently winds back and forth, providing changing views of the valley and Half Dome.  A bridge crossing met us at Illuote creek and we took a few minutes to cool off along the water.  We had only seen a handful of hikers since we started and the quiet tranquility reminded us of our experience in Tuolumne Meadows.

It would be uphill for a mile or two, mostly in the sun, until we neared Nevada Falls.  Periodic openings in the trees allowed for new perspectives of the valley far below.  

Our first view of Nevada Falls was from the ridge above, with the backside of Half Dome in the distance.  The nearly 600 foot waterfall looked small from this initial vantage point, but the sound of the water crashing below helped keep its true size in perspective.

The view from the top of the falls was just as impressive.  Water gushed over the edge into nowhere, landing far below.  Several other hikers lounged around the rocks upstream, and this is where we chose to eat lunch, listening to the water rush past towards the valley below.

Not far below Nevada Falls was the 'top' of Vernal Falls.  Above Vernal Falls is where things got really interesting.  Chaos is probably the best way to describe it.  The crowds were overwhelming, and the one or two rangers we saw in the area couldn't keep up.  

Never before have we seen so many people knowingly (or perhaps unknowingly) not acting rationally.  Multiple people were swimming less than 100 feet upstream from the waterfall while a handful of others were standing on or stepping over the railing right next to the drop itself.  It seems every year that a visitor gets swept over the waterfall, but warnings are continuously ignored for the fear-inducing memory or photo.

This area summed up what our opinion is of the Yosemite Valley during peak summer - crowded and chaotic.

The hike from the top of Vernal Falls to the bottom is where the Mist Trail really gets its name.  A slick rock staircase descends steeply with minimal to no options for a hand rail.  At the base, many visitors were walking along the rocks to enjoy the cooling mist in the heat.

As we neared the trailhead, we noticed two rangers at a water filling station doing their best to encourage visitors to bring enough water and, where appropriate, providing alternative trails for those not prepared.  A tough job, for sure, but one that we're sure helps most visitors willing to listen.

Unfortunately, our lone shuttle experience in the Valley was a negative one.  Just as we approached the stop a shuttle left with a full load of visitors, so we got in the small line that was forming.  It would be another hour before the next shuttle arrived.  This was one of, if not the most popular hikes in the Valley, so a line of several hundred visitors gathered and stretched out from the starting point over that hour.  Some mechanical issue had resulted in a shuttle blocking the road, so no shuttles could reach our stop.  When the first shuttle arrived, five followed immediately after.  The shuttle line literally cheered when they pulled up.

Knowing we had a long hiking day today, we had made reservations at the Yosemite mountain room, known for its views of Yosemite Falls from inside the dining room.  Though not Ahwahnee, it was a nice dining choice at the lodge.

One activity that we hadn't yet done was to watch rock climbers on El Capitan, Yosemite's world famous 3,000 foot rock face.  As luck would have it, there were several groups today.  Several climbers' family members and friends, as well as other visitors had gathered in the meadows below El Capitan to peer up and check on the status of those climbing.  

It took a while to spot them, even with the help of friendly neighbors.  But once we did, it was impossible not to appreciate the scale of El Capitan and the skill of the climbers.  The day we were there had two groups - the highest climbers were ascending, while the lower group of climbers were descending down long ropes from the top.  

Highest Climbers

Lower Climbers

Lowest Climbers

Once the shadows covered El Capitan completely, we made our way back to Valley View for one last sunset in Yosemite.

Our final morning in Yosemite required an early departure, which also meant a few more opportunities to appreciate some sights a final time without the crowds.  

It's easy to see why Yosemite is spoken of so highly.  The grand Valley, massive sequoias, and the majestic high country make this one of the most special places in the United States and one that we felt proud was protected so long ago for the enjoyment of future generations.