Saturday, July 5, 2014

Yosemite: Wawona, Mariposa Grove, and Glacier Point

We descended from the Alpine Meadows, but it took us a little longer than we expected to finally arrive at Wawona Hotel. After dropping our bags off, we sprinted over to the shuttle stop in order to try to catch the last tram tour in Mariposa Grove. The Park Service operates small, open-air trams (kind of like in the Disney parking lot) that allows you to admire the giant trees while sitting down rather than hiking the entire loop. We planned to take the tram to the furthest point and then hike back down.

The Park Service and various guidebooks recommended taking a shuttle to Mariposa Grove since the parking lot is usually full. However, after waiting and waiting and waiting for the shuttle, we got nervous that we would miss the last scheduled tram tour. So, Nate decided to risk the "full" parking lot and drive while Ashley continued to wait for the shuttle. We're not really sure why we split up. It's unlike us as we strongly believe in the buddy system. We weren't sure whether the car or shuttle would arrive first so we hedged our bets so one of us could at least buy the tickets and stall the tram. Ashley probably would have "won" on the tram since it arrived soon after Nate took off for car. Yet, for some unknown reason, the shuttle driver pulled over halfway there for a break. Sadly, Ashley watched Nate pass in the car through the window. The shuttle ride seemed especially long since a local decided to sit next to Ashley and ask an endless number of random questions and then criticize her answers. He also didn't seem to believe her that she was meeting her husband when she got off the shuttle. That led to another line of random questions. She has a knack for attracting weird interesting strangers.

After finally arriving at the Grove, Nate sadly informed Ashley that the last tram tour had already departed. Thus,we'd have to hike a little more than we anticipated. At least we were at a lower elevation. Ashley remains disappointed in the shuttle system.  (Update: The tram has since been closed permanently due to renovations in and around the Mariposa Grove).

Undeterred, we started hiking the roughly three mile uphill Lower Grove Trail. The trail leads past most of the tree all-stars located in the Park. Not far from the Parking Lot, we saw the Fallen Monarch - made famous by a photograph of cavalry lined up in front of and on top of the tree. Although she didn't have a horse, Ashley posed for a picture in front it as well. Get ready for a lot of photos of us in front of big trees to demonstrate scale.


Mariposa Grove contains Sequoias, which are a type of Redwood. While tall, they are known for their girth and are wider than the famous Redwoods of northern California.  Another famous resident of the Grove - the Grizzly Gian (pictured below) - is the largest Sequoia in Yosemite and one of the largest in the world. At 210 feet tall and 31 feet across at the base, it's an impressive sight. One branch is over seven feet in diameter - wider than most trees in the normal world.


Just beyond the Grizzly Giant is the California Tunnel tree which, as you guessed it, allows visitors to walk through. 


Even late in the day, the path was crowded in the lower grove.  However, hiking the path past the California Tunnel tree provided some relief and the crowds noticeably thinned.  Make sure to grab a map because there are many splits in different directions which can be confusing at times.


As we continued up the path beyond the Faithful Couple (above), large, mature sequoias became more common. Even those that aren't marked with a name on the map are impressively gigantic, and even with Nate for scale, need to be seen in person to truly appreciate.  How big? This big!


With dinner quickly approaching, we decided to turn around before reaching the Upper Grove and begin the hike back down to our car.  The Wawona Hotel provided us a great interim stop between tent cabins in Tuolumne and the craziness of the Yosemite Valley.  It's a perfect location to explore the area's two main locations - Mariposa Grove and Glacier Point.


Having had less time than hoped for in the Mariposa Grove, Nate decided to visit again the next morning shortly after dawn. With only one other car in the parking lot, it was a stark contrast to the day before.


The trails were empty and a beautifully quiet grove of massive sequoias were his for an hour.  It's probably as close as one can get to Galen Clark discovering the grove 150 years ago.  Surrounded by the largest living beings on earth, it provided a time to reflect on how fortunate we are that areas such as the Mariposa Grove are protected for all to enjoy.


While Nate hiked through the Mariposa Grove, Ashley was lazy got a unique opportunity to sleep in.  Once Nate was back, we enjoyed a breakfast at Wawona before heading out for the main destination of Glacier Point for some hiking and great views.

Glacier Point
Glacier Point is another of those iconic views of Yosemite, providing expansive views of the valley (and Half Dome) from 3000 feet above.  With the valley our ultimate destination later in the day, the views gave a perfect introduction and perspective.  Vernal and Nevada Falls cascade down the tree covered distant granite walls while, in the other direction, the road carrying millions of visitors winds along the valley floor.


A nearby parking lot provides access to two popular trailheads with tremendous views over the valley: Sentinel Dome and Taft Point.

Sentinel Dome gives a view of the valley even higher than the more famous (and easily accessible) Glacier Point. At 2.2. miles roundtrip, this hike rewards even beginner hikers with inspiring scenery and fewer crowds. The top of the trail isn't really a marked trail, but rather a "choose your own adventure" up the granite slope. We recommend switch backing on the way down.


When we returned to the parking lot, we decided we had time to tackle the second trail option - Taft Point. Heading in the opposition direction, this trail is also 2.2 miles round trip and offers additional views of the valley. After winding through the forest, the trail opens along fissures in the granite that you walk by before coming to a small platform that hangs over the valley. The fissures are not fenced off so use some caution and common sense while on this trail. More adventurous hikers can peer over the platform fence to the valley floor 3,000 feet below, but Ashley opted to remain a safe distance from the rail. It's like nature's version of the skydeck at the Sears' Tower. 


Having already completed two hikes this morning, we drove back to Glacier Point for a Hot Dog and a view. The concession counter had less than stellar customer service and caused a lot of confusion in the ordering process. As we waited...and waited...for our hot dog to be ready, a hangry mob had rallied behind Ashley. Eventually, she was fed without causing too much damage.

As we began our descent to the valley, we made one final stop for a hike out to McGurk meadows. Although there was a promise of wildflowers, it seems we were probably a little past the peak time, but it was still a peaceful ramble away from the crowds.


Having accomplished enough hiking for the day, we continued our drive to the valley to finally visit the most famous part of Yosemite filled with anticipation of the beauty and dread of the crowds.

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