Yosemite: The Valley Part 2

Glacier Point again?  You betcha!  Only this time, we'd be taking a shuttle to the top and then hiking back down along the Panorama Trail (make sure to reserve the shuttle ahead of time, and yes, you have to pay).  We chose the earliest shuttle to get started before it was too hot, as well as in the hopes that it would mean less hikers.  

Besides the fact that this hike goes down into the Valley, it was great for several other reasons: unique views of Half Dome and the valley, less populated (for the upper part), and the hike includes the Mist Trail which passes both Vernal and Nevada Falls.  In other words, it was our favorite hike in(to) the Valley.

The nine mile hike would take us down to Illuote creek, up across the ridge, and then down again past the waterfalls to the Valley floor, where we'd pick up the Valley Shuttle back to our hotel.

Yosemite: A Bike Ride in the Valley (Part 1)

After spending several days in less crowded areas of the park, it was finally time to descend into the valley for a few days to complete our visit to Yosemite.  Leaving from Glacier Point, highway 41 once again took us through the Wawona Tunnel to one of the best views of the Valley - Tunnel View.

Each time we passed this point (going or leaving), Nate was sure to hop out for a few minutes to snap a few pictures.  Though the waterfalls were light this time of year, the overall scale of the scene was impressive each stop.  Both of us want to return earlier in the year for our next visit to see the full scale of these massive waterfalls (that is, assuming a decent winter snowfall).

We'd driven through on a few occasions, but had not spent more than a few minutes in traffic on our way to another section of the park.  The high country was warm, but the valley would have a high of around 100 each of the days that we'd be there.  This, as well as the crowds, would play a part in our plans over the next two days.

Yosemite: Wawona, Mariposa Grove, and Glacier Point

We descended from the Alpine Meadows, but it took us a little longer than we expected to finally arrive at Wawona Hotel. After dropping our bags off, we sprinted over to the shuttle stop in order to try to catch the last tram tour in Mariposa Grove. The Park Service operates small, open-air trams (kind of like in the Disney parking lot) that allows you to admire the giant trees while sitting down rather than hiking the entire loop. We planned to take the tram to the furthest point and then hike back down.

The Park Service and various guidebooks recommended taking a shuttle to Mariposa Grove since the parking lot is usually full. However, after waiting and waiting and waiting for the shuttle, we got nervous that we would miss the last scheduled tram tour. So, Nate decided to risk the "full" parking lot and drive while Ashley continued to wait for the shuttle. We're not really sure why we split up. It's unlike us as we strongly believe in the buddy system. We weren't sure whether the car or shuttle would arrive first so we hedged our bets so one of us could at least buy the tickets and stall the tram. Ashley probably would have "won" on the tram since it arrived soon after Nate took off for car. Yet, for some unknown reason, the shuttle driver pulled over halfway there for a break. Sadly, Ashley watched Nate pass in the car through the window. The shuttle ride seemed especially long since a local decided to sit next to Ashley and ask an endless number of random questions and then criticize her answers. He also didn't seem to believe her that she was meeting her husband when she got off the shuttle. That led to another line of random questions. She has a knack for attracting weird interesting strangers.

After finally arriving at the Grove, Nate sadly informed Ashley that the last tram tour had already departed. Thus,we'd have to hike a little more than we anticipated. At least we were at a lower elevation. Ashley remains disappointed in the shuttle system.  (Update: The tram has since been closed permanently due to renovations in and around the Mariposa Grove).

Undeterred, we started hiking the roughly three mile uphill Lower Grove Trail. The trail leads past most of the tree all-stars located in the Park. Not far from the Parking Lot, we saw the Fallen Monarch - made famous by a photograph of cavalry lined up in front of and on top of the tree. Although she didn't have a horse, Ashley posed for a picture in front it as well. Get ready for a lot of photos of us in front of big trees to demonstrate scale.

Yosemite: Tuolumne Meadows and May Lake

Since we had spent most of our time in the high country completing alpine hikes, we started the morning in the area's namesake meadows. Still recovering from our Cloud's Rest summit (or near-summit in Ashley's case), we chose a leisurely path (i.e. flat) through the meadows along the river for an opportunity to view the Soda Springs. Despite the ease of the trail, we encountered few hikers this early in the morning and enjoyed the peacefulness of the High Country. We probably wouldn't truly appreciate that peacefulness until entering the chaos of the valley later in the trip.

Yosemite: Tuolumne Meadows and Cloud's Rest

"Half Dome without the crowds."  "No chains."  "No lottery to get a coveted spot to summit."  "Views of Half Dome from the top."  That's what we heard about Cloud's Rest.   It sounded like the perfect high country alternative to the more famous Half Dome hike.

Yosemite: Tuolumne Meadows

Tuolumne Meadows Lodge sounds fancier than it actually is. The "Lodge" refers to the dining room and reception area, but the rooms consist of semi-permanent canvas tents.  Beds, linens, and a wood burning stove are included, but communal restrooms and showers are located in a separate central building.  We are still debating whether this constitutes camping or glamping. You be the judge.

California: Monterey and Big Sur

Monterey:

After landing at the San Jose airport at nearly midnight west coast time, we drove to Salinas to be closer to Monterey for the next day's adventure. San Jose served as an excellent gateway to the Monterey area and Yosemite without the congestion of the San Francisco airports. 

Feeling better after finally getting some sleep after the prior day of traveling cross-country, we drove to Monterey Bay for a guided kayak tour. Monterey may be best known for their aquarium, but we opted to experience the local sea life in their natural habitat by kayaking in the bay. 

Monterey Bay Kayak allows visitors to rent kayaks or participate in guided tours. Unfamiliar with the area, we chose a guided tour, which also included the necessary gear such as spray skirts, tandem sea kayaks, and wetsuits - their strong suggestion to wear the wetsuit and the repeated safety demonstrations on how to exit a capsized kayak did make us slightly weary that we may end up closer to the sea life than preferred. 

United Kingdom: Edinburgh

Edinburgh

Our train arrived in Edinburgh with the sun providing only an hour more of light.  Our hotel, The Glasshouse (Marriott), was close enough to the train station to comfortably walk with luggage in tow.  Immediately, we noticed a harder, grungier feel of the city and its residents compared London.  This isn't said with any real negativity, but the difference was quite evident during the 10 minute walk to our hotel.  In contrast to London, we received one of the nicest room upgrades yet to a large suite with a bathroom larger than our master bedroom at home.  Edinburgh was looking good already.

To further the positive vibe, we splurged for dinner at 21212, one of several Michelin Star restaurants that Edinburgh claims.  The concept was unique, with each number representing a course and the number of options to choose from for that course (though they had deviated somewhat, allowing each diner to choose from 3 items from the first, third, and fifth courses).  To add to the experience, we were seated at a small table for two in a corner that overlooked the small Victorian room, bringing back memories of sitting at our sweetheart table from our wedding.  It was a very nice evening showcasing Scottish hospitality.

We started the next morning early with another dose of Harry Potter.  The Elephant House, just off the Royal Mile, is a now well known coffee shop with views of the castle where JK Rowling worked on her first Harry Potter novels.  The view through the window of the Castle makes it very easy to understand where the inspiration for Hogwarts hilltop setting came from.

United Kingdom: York

A detour in York on the way to Edinburgh

We left London on an early train from King's Cross station to York.  Although we would eventually spend the night in Edinburgh, York is conveniently located halfway between the two cities, which provided the perfect daytrip/break in our journey. After arriving in York, we stored our luggage near the station, which is a great option if you are only choosing to spend the day. The luggage storage area charges a small fee and is located outside the station proper near a car park. 

Our train arrived early enough to allow us just enough time to catch the free volunteer walking tour in York which started at 10:15 in Exhibition Square and included Museum Gardens, St. Mary's Abbey, walking the walls, the Shambles, and plenty of history along the way. Local volunteer guides share their love of the city, with our tour being led by a lovely grandfatherly figure who was especially proud of Dame Judy Dench's connection to York.

United Kingdom: London Part 2

London Day 3 - Churchill War Rooms, Westminster Walk, and a Pub Tour

A light drizzle met us as we left our hotel for the short walk to our tube stop where we bought another daily pass and tubed to Westminster again in to begin the Westminister Audio Guided walk from Rick Steves. The walk is roughly a 45 minute narrated walk that starts on the Westminster Bridge, follows along White Hall, and ultimately ends in Trafalgar Square.  It was a nice way to admire and learn some of the history of the sites in the area at our own pace.

Our first major stop after Westminster and Parliament Square was the Churchill War rooms, conveniently only a 100 yard walk off the narrated route. So, we paused our walking tour to explore this incredibly interesting museum.  The museum contains two distinct sections: one on Churchill's life and the other on the underground meeting rooms and living quarters from World War 2. These dimly lit rooms under the Treasury building were essentially where Churchill and his advisers ran the European war effort for five years.

Amazingly, the rooms were locked up and abandoned after Hitler's surrender so they are well preserved and look exactly how they did in the 1940's.  In addition to the preserved rooms, the large museum exhibit focuses on the life and political career of Churchill. It was particularly interesting that he was born during the days of cavalry charges and his career ended in the midst of a nuclear arms race.  This is definitely worth a stop to see and learn about one of the 20th century's most influential figures. His determination and leadership in a time with little hope still inspires today.

United Kingdom: London Part 1

London Day 1: Buses, Mummies, and Chinese Food, oh my!

After our Mad Max tour, we rolled our luggage to the Bath train station and hopped on the next train to London. After traveling 1.5 hours through the English countryside with views of plenty of sheep and possibly one of the chalk horses, we arrived at London Paddington station. Since we were tired from the full-day tour and had our luggage, we decided to catch a cab to our hotel - plus, a ride in a black London cab seemed like a must-do experience. Our hotel was situated along Hyde Park, which was full of people enjoying the sunshine in the late afternoon...unfortunately, that was the last we would see of the sun for awhile...

After depositing our bags in the room, we headed out the back of the hotel to grab a late dinner at The Audley - a nearby pub. On the way, we quickly realized we were staying in a luxurious neighborhood as we passed a variety of high-end vehicles - Bentleys, Rolls Royces, Ferrari, Masarati etc just parked one after another along the street. 

The next morning we awoke to cloud covered skies and the first of 4 nonstop days of spitting rain. Undeterred, we donned our rain coats, packed our brolly and headed to explore the city. After all, as the Brits say, there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing. Unlike the torrential downpours of Florida, one can still manage to sight-see quite effectively in the light rain of London. 

To start our day, we jumped on the "hop on, hop off" big bus tour. Luckily, a section of the upper deck is covered so we were able to sit upstairs and enjoy the views while staying dry. We planned on using the London Underground to accomplish much of our sightseeing, but the doubledecker bus allowed us to first see the city from above before heading "underground."

United Kingdom: Bath, Stonehenge, and Surrounding Areas

Bath, England

After taking a convenient overnight flight directly from Florida to London, we landed at Gatwick Airport around 7:30 in the morning after catching very little sleep on the plane. We didn't have time to process how sleepy we were because we were trying to catch the next train to Bath as soon as we collected our luggage. Gatwick Airport has a train station literally in the terminal, which makes it an easy departure point for the surrounding areas. After transferring trains in Reading (with literally an 8 minute transfer window), we arrived in Bath around 11:30 - just in time for lunch! 

Bath gave us an immediate introduction to proper English weather - light, consistent rain. Undeterred, we stored our bags at our hotel (Abbey Hotel, which is just a short walk from the train station) and set out to explore the town. 

Hungry from (or is it for) travel, we popped into The Raven, a local pub, for some pies and ale (and cider). The pies and hand-pumped beverages helped us appreciate that we were truly in England. Although somewhat empty when arrived, the pub quickly filled up as the rain continued to fall. 

Concerned that the comfort food and sitting too long would allow jet lag to set in, we headed outside for a self-guided walking tour. Traveler tip: our key to fighting jet lag is changing our watch to the destination's time as soon we board the plane and to keep moving throughout the day. The historical society's audio walking tour of Bath was just the ticket to keep us active for the afternoon. This dreary weather certainly encouraged napping...